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26 Apr, 2009

Finishing Mad Science Pt. 2

Posted by: vinny In: woodworking

Fuming didn’t work so well, so I wasn’t holding out much hope for ebonizing my oak as it’s a few more steps than fuming.

To recap, fuming oak is pretty simple. Just put the oak in a closed(ish) box with a small dish of ammonia. Stronger solutions work faster, but I got results with ammonia from a big box store and a 24 hour fume. It was greenish (a known issue with American red oak), but the chemical reaction took place as expected.

Ebonizing is a little more work as you have to prep a solution. I took one pad of #0000 steel wool and rinsed it in water. I cut that into little pieces and put the pieces into the remains of a gallon plastic bottle of white vinegar (~1 cup). The steel wool will begin to rust over a few days. I let mine sit for about 1 week. You can then decant and filter this solution into another container. Brush it onto the wood, and the color change is almost immediate. I also bought a little container of ebony stain to try that out.

Here’s one coat of ebony stain (left) and one application of ebonizing fluid (right):

First Pass

Not quite what I was looking for in either case, but the ebonizing fluid surprised me greatly. It’s just the little veins of oak that don’t react (no tannins there, I guess), keeping that from being a winner. I wonder how it’ll work if I add the stain to the home made fluid?

Mix And Stain

I think we have a winner. Now to pick a finish coat (shellac/poly/etc).

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  • Stevie G: Your ammonia concentration was FAR, FAR, FAR FAR FAR too weak if you got it off the shelf. At most, store bought ammonia is at %5-%10. To proper
  • mja: Thanks a ton mate!
  • vinny: Nelson, Same result if you add to the font-dirs file in the Xming program folder? How 'bout if you launch Xming from the

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